1953 Ford Customline 351 Cleveland Project

(Good bye flathead... I need more Giddyyup!!!)
and my middle name is Cleaveland!!)


This is the new 351 Cleveland for my 1953 Ford Sedan
also a Ford Toploader 4 Speed, Ford 9" Rear and Custom Instrument Cluster.

How it all looks "Back Together in Texas"

Thanks to Gus and Chuck at NAPA Auto Parts and
the guys at MarioShop (Mario in center, Heiko on left, Seth on right).


Me making the Headers

Moving Van to Austin, TX
Jan 2014

Me with Custom Car God:
Gary Howard


"Customs by Gary Howard"

11 Mar 2015: Video of car with motor running (428 Meg)

Video -> <- Video

This is a really large file, so download could take a while.


A Note About Time And The Occasional Lack Of Progress

I know there are times it seems that not much is getting done.
Well, be at peace, I spend a LOT of time thinking about stuff before
I lift a wrench. Some of this stuff is the first time for me and
perhaps anyone else on a '53 Ford. So, I think a lot and then make
it happen. Most times it works, sometimes it doesn't.

A lot of times I just want to play video games or watch movies
instead of crawling around the car all weekend. I do still have
laundry, cooking, and all the other things that need to be done
around the house on a regular basis.

I am single after all, and I'm the only one here to get it done.


Primary
Parts Suppliers

Among lots of others

These are NOT sponsors, I'm buying my own stuff at full price.
These are just where most of the stuff came from.


Performance Parts Galore.

Just about anything original.

Toploader Transmission God.

My local auto parts store.

In the Beginning


Before the driveline replacement began

Assembled 27 Oct 1952, Dallas, TX
Sold new by Donges-Long Ford in Colorado Springs, CO.
I bought it second hand in 1987 with 87,000 miles on the odometer.
The folks I bought it from inherited it from the wife's parents,
the original owners.

Originally a 239 cu.in. Flathead V8.
"3 on the tree" 3 speed overdrive transmission.
Tube type AM Radio with Pushbutton presets.
6 volt positive ground.

This was right after I did the original $40 paint job (1990)
4 cans black Krylon, and 1 ea: white, yellow, orange, red
Cost included masking tape!

The engine and driveline were rebuilt by Charlie and Tom
of Snow Automotive in Colorado Springs.
Completed 06 Apr 2001, with 15065 on the Odometer (add 100,000)
and what a nice job they did.
The motor was sold in August, 2011, for $3,000.00.


The Rebuild Progress

Newest on top

Transmission and clutch are Here

Ford 9 inch Rear Axle is Here

Dash, Console and Electrical are Here


05 Mar 2016 - Working On Finishing Console

This all looked so simple, like everything was almost done
Well, that's not how it's panning out.
I got the wood top finished and ready - no bolt holes yet.
But without a good workbench or proper non-bench tools,
it's a real task to get these side panels sized, bent to fit, and
ultimately painted, holes drilled, and bolts installed.

12 Jan 2016 - Quick Paint and Reinstall of Console Side Panels

12 Jan 2016 - Final Fabrication and Install of Fan Shroud

Drilled some holes, painted the parts purple (I love colors) and bolted it all in. Works GREAT! Stays COOL!

21 Nov 2015 - Out for a Test Drive

Had an opportunity to take some undercarriage photos.

19 Nov 2015 - New 7 Blade Flex Fan.

This has actually solved my nagging cooling problem!

16 July 2015 - New Traction Bars.

The Lakewood traction bars are installed

03 Apr 2015 - New Rear Springs.

I ordered from General Spring and had installed new rear leaf springs.
Sometime while the first motor was running, I really put my foot in it.
While this was certainly an exciting event, I didn't notice until
later that the rear springs (and the rear U-joint bolts as well) had
suffered from this. At the 500 mile checkup, the mechanic noticed the
damaged U-joint bolts and we replaced them. We talked about this and
also found the rear leaf springs were warped. It was a thing called
spring or axle wrap. When launching a car, the driveshaft transmits
energy to the rear axle. The rear axle tries to turn the axle shafts,
but the tires are gripping the ground. The result is the torque gets
applied to the leaf springs and the axle housing twists in the
opposite direction. This caused the springs to warp and because
the torque force exceeded the ability of the springs to counter and
hold their shape, a permanent bend happened. The U-joint was damaged
when the angle between the driveshaft and the axle pinion exceeded
limits during the wrap.

I have Lakewood traction bars from Summit Racing ready to go on the car.

10 Mar 2015 - Install heat wrap for wiring on inner fender.

Needed to keep the electrical tape from melting via the headers!

17 Feb 2015 - 500 Miles Checkup.

She has reached the 500 miles point on the new motor.
I took it to MarioShop to have them do the engine checkup and bolt
torque work on the new motor. All is good except that there is a
rear main seal leak, and still no fix for the rear axle yoke leak.
There is also a rear leaf spring problem... from too much spring wrap.
Seems that some of the quick launches with the first motor (I have
done none of those with the new motor, was waiting till after breakin)
have bent the rear leafs near the front attach point, and hence the
rear of the car is now lower (and leans to the driver side).
I will need new leaf packs, and some traction bars!!!
The new louver panels seem to really be helping let the heat out.

14 Feb 2015 - A Step Toward Cool.

I installed a pair of louver panels from RunCool to vent the heat
from under the hood. My hopes are that this will significantly
reduce the build up of heat. Between the headers and radiator
air coming in, and no place for it to go, things were just over
whelming the car.


My neighbor, Dave.

24 Sep 2014 - Took it to Round Rock Muffler for new Exhaust work.

Had the folks there update the exhaust to replace the flexible
pipe up front with bent steel tube, and move the mufflers and tail
pipe exits more to the rear so the exits are just in front of the
rear wheels and this also moves the mufflers out of the way of the
parking brake mechanicals.

28 Aug 2014 - Back from MarioShop for Engine Replace.

Mario's shop has completed the engine replace. Yes, it is back
and running. Now we see how it goes from here. Does have a rear
axle pinion seal leak. MarioShop did replace the yoke and seal,
but that did not fix it. Anyway, I'm REALLY pleased with the work
and results.

22 Aug 2014 - The Car is at MarioShop for the Engine Replace.

Mario's shop has accepted the car and will do the engine replace.


24 July 2014 - The new motor arrived at NAPA.

25 July 2014 - The new motor is delivered to Mario's Shop.

Mario's shop is busy, so it will be at least a week before work
begins on replacing the motor in the Ford. At least the new motor
is here, so it will happen soon, and Mario seems to know his game.



19 May 2014 - Rebuilt Motor Ordered From NAPA Autoparts

I have ordered a rebuilt 351 Cleveland motor from NAPA autoparts.
I was told it should be here in about 6 weeks. The supplier had
two others on back order, and a line on a third core. I will keep
my fingers and toes crossed.

I decided to go this route to reduce my costs and to increase the
success until I can get settled in Austin, TX. At some point I
need to come up to speed (pun intended) on building my own hotrod
motor, especially the finicky Cleveland, and the NAPA motor will
buy me that time while getting it back on the road.

I have not yet opened up the current motor, so I don't know yet
what went wrong or what is broke.

I also don't know yet whether I will do the motor replace or hand
it over to a shop. I am looking around and will see if there's
a shop that I can trust to do this work, but so far, my experiences
with hotrod shops has not gone well.



17 Nov 2013 - Well, It Was Fun While It Lasted

The motor blew up. While out to pick up a pizza for
the Sunday Night Football game, I heard the classic rattle
from the engine. Since I'm currently unemployed, and the
oil pressure was still normal, I turned it around and headed for
home. It got worse on the way, including lots of smoke, but it
did make it home. No big hole in the block and no leaking anywhere.

I will look into what broke and do the rebuild after I find new work.

In the meantime, I can sit in it, listen to the radio, and play
with the lights and turn signals, etc. And maybe I can do some
other fixes, updates, changes that don't take a lot of money.


10 Sep 2013 - Out and About at Wendy's for a Burger.
These are photos from the parking lot at Wendy's in Reno.

31 August 2013: Acquired Louvers for the Hood

After finding out why hot rodders put louvers on their hoods,
I got some to put on my hood. The original way was to actually form
the sheet metal with hand made dies. Nowdays, you can find
pre-stamped louvers on sheet stock and cut and weld it into the body
panel. I may just pop-rivet these on for a while and see how it goes.

As to why? When you put a high horsepower motor under one of these
old hoods, they just aren't designed to shed all the heat that such
power generates. Not all that heat is handled by the radiator and fans.

20 July 2013: Added Flexfan to Engine to Reduce Heat

The temperatures in Reno are around 95-100 degrees for several
weeks. The car continues to develop overly high heat in the engine
compartment. First I added 1/2 inch spacers to the hood support
bumpers to raise the rear edge of the hood to allow hot air out
there. Then I installed a flexfan to the engine to enhance the
airflow across the radiator and to increase the air circulation
under the hood at all times. It really helped a lot, but I'm still
experiencing too much heat when stopped in traffic and lights.

26 June 2013 - Second Show at DoughBoys!!!
These are photos from the second showing at DoughBoys in Reno.

19 June 2013 - It's back on the road!!!
These are photos from the first showing at Summit Racing in Reno.

It goes down the road REAL nice, puts my back nicely into the seat,
no leaks or overheating, and it REALLY sounds GREAT!!!

13-15 June 2013: Header Work Both Sides Complete

The passenger side header is installed complete with collector.
Both sides have head pipes and mufflers installed by Thurs eve.
I took the car out for a round the block test, noisy inside and hot.
On Friday the exhaust pipes are finished to come out below rear
doors in front of rear wheels. Test drive on Saturday: much quieter
inside but still hot. Need to finish the floor cover over the trans.

08-09 June 2013: Header Work Driver Side Complete

The driver side header is installed complete with collector.
The driver side is now ready for installation of exhaust pipes and
mufflers. Sunday work is TBD at this time.

01-02 June 2013: Header Work Passenger Side

The passenger side header is now done. The first tube was done and
the install test checked out. The other three were completed too.
Next is the collector work, the exhaust pipes and mufflers. When
those are complete, the vehicle will be "On the Road Again" and all
the trials and testing that implies!!

30 May 2013: Another Set of Front Disc Brakes

I have acquired another set of front disc brakes. These are 11"
and the calipers fit to the rear side of the front suspension. This
provides for using the stock brake line mounts at the frame and
I personally (for no technical reason) like them to the rear.

25-27 May 2013: More Header Work

The driver side header is done, and some work on the tranny cover.
Had to rework the three tubes I had done after taking a close look
at how the steering interacted with the header path. Got that fixed
and the fourth tube done, and then welded the whole thing up, right
up to being ready for the collector. Both of the tranny cover floor
supports are finished and installed.

18-19 May 2013: Significant Header Work

I have three of the main header tubes together as they route down
and make a right turn to the rear and into the collector. The two
mostly completed Saturday were the hard ones on the driver side.
After getting the first two aiming down, I tried it out in the car
and it fit good and cleared all the issues nicely.
I'm using an acetylene torch for the welding and it is going quite
well considering I'm really not a practiced welder.
I did more work on Sunday, and got about 70% of the driver side
header done, including the rearward curves for the first two, and
the complete third tube and another test fit in the car.
There's even a photo of yours truly using the cutoff tool and making
lots of sparks and metal filings on the floor as collateral fun.

07 Apr 2013: Floor Support and Engine Tune

I did the bend up of one of two floor supports that go alongside
the drive tunnel.

And for me, the big news is that I had an inspiration about using
the harmonic balancer timing marks to re-set the static timing
instead of just guessing. The results were amazing!
The motor runs very well, and I don't have to play any games
to keep it running or rev it up!! YEA!!! Waap Waap Vroooooom!!!
See the video nearer the top of this page.

24 Mar 2013: Well, Finally Starting the Headers,
And Some New Photos of the Dash and Console.

03 Feb 2013: Dragon's Breath on the Doors.

This was actually put on the doors this past summer,
but I realized that I did not have photos of it.

04 Jan 2013: Radio Surround of Wood Done and
New Console Top is Cut Out and Placed.

It's way too cold in the garage, about 20 degrees, to do much
But the radio surround insert is in and complete. I also cut out
and dropped the new console top into place (not finished and not
bolted down. The side pieces are also just set in place. I put
the front seat back into it's location and a nut on the front left
seat stud to hold it in place. Then just kinda shoved the carpet
back on the floor. Buttoning things up for winter, I guess.

29 Dec 2012: Radio Surround of Wood.

It's too cold in the garage for painting larger parts, so I
took the 1/4 thick red oak piece and started fabricating the insert
around the radio/CD player. The bright background was driving me
crazy as I sat there listening to the stereo and I kept thinking
I needed to put in a wood insert that matches the instrument cluster.
So here goes...

26 Dec 2012: Red Oak and Steel.

For Christmas I bought myself some red oak pieces, wood clamps,
wood glue, and a block plane. One of the red oak pieces is a 1/4
thick and will be used for an insert around the stereo deck.

During the last few days, I marked up and then cut out the two
tranny cover side pieces. I guess for now I'm skipping the
plexiglass parts of the tranny cover, but I have not dismissed
the idea of going that way before it's all said and done.

I bet your wife won't let you do this... gluing the console boards
together on the kitchen counter. I don't have a wife... no problem!

I also bought a highend Singer sewing machine so that when the
time comes, I can sew leather and other materials for redoing the
interior, including seats and door and kick panels.

26 Nov 2012: Transmission Cover Build Continues.

Both braces are now painted, sealed and permanently installed.

24 Nov 2012: Transmission Cover Build Continues.

I fabricated the forward cover brace and installed it. Also
did a preliminary cut and place of the red oak top panel. This
will actually only cover the passenger (right) side while a piece
of plexiglass will cover the driver (left) side. I also still need
to make the two side pieces from steel sheet.

14 Nov 2012: Installed Retaining Cover for Throttle Bushing.

Bent up a piece of sheet steel to serve as the retainer for the
throttle bushing. I used a couple sockets and the bench vise to do this.

04 Nov 2012: Installed Rear Transmission Cover Brace.

I used the 1/4-20 rivnuts to attach the rear cover brace.
I also did some measurements to insure it is centered and level.

28 Oct 2012: Installed an Oil Impregnated Plastic Bushing.

My friend at work machined this bushing for my throttle rod at the firewall.

21 Oct 2012: Transmission Cover Build Continues.

I reworked the opening at the front end to make a lip for
attachment of a brace. It will look similar to the one for the rear
and will allow attachment for the sides and top pieces. I have
laid out the part and the next step is to cut it out and bend it up.

13 Oct 2012: Transmission Cover Build in Progress.

I cut out and shaped the rear transmission cover support bracket.
Below those photos are the "mule" engine with header flange, starter
and engine mounts getting ready for building the headers.

01 Oct 2012: New Disc Rotor and Caliper Test.

I got one of the new disc rotors and a caliper today, so I tried
them out with the spare wheel and took some photos.

01 Oct 2012: And The Cardboard Grows.

Made a cardboard mockup of my thoughts on the console/tranny cover.

26 Sep 2012: A Piece of Cardboard.

This piece of cardboard will soon be transformed into
the center console and cover for the hole where the hump used to be.

15 Sep 2012: New Holley 650cfm carburetor.

I replaced the Holley 750 with a 650 carb to see if this solved
some run problems...well, it really didn't change anything.
It seems that my problems are just how the cam responds when at
low rpm. So, when the time comes, I'll be sure to set the idle up.
I also need the headers to help with the exhaust flow...coming soon!

11 Sep 2012: Photos For Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit Prep.

I have ordered a front disc conversion kit from "Brake Tech Solutions"
Gonna need better front brakes than these 10" drums!!
And it will look better too!!

09 Sep 2012: The Gas Pedal Rod Hook-up is Complete.

End of rod is threaded and safety nuts are installed.

06 Sep 2012: The Gas Pedal Rod is Hooked up.

I used an eye bolt as the slip fitting on the gas pedal end
instead of a machined slotted part. I still want to install
a nut on the raw end of the rod to act as a safety stop, but
this works and sure was simple. And of course I had to check
out how it worked, so I fired up the motor, ran it through some
revs, including up around 4500 rpm. Man does this run and sound
GREAT! The carb is way too rich, but I'll get that worked out.

02 Sep 2012: Got a New Throttle Rod (5/16 Stainless Rod).

Fabbed a new throttle rod out of 5/16 stainless rod. Included
milling the tip of the rod down to 1/4 so I could thread it for
1/4-28. This threaded into the fitting at the carb.
I used my drill press with a 2 foot long piece of 5/16 rod chucked
in it and a pin in a block at the bottom to hold the rod like a
lathe, while I worked the bottom end with a file. I used a slide
caliper to determine when the rod was at 1/4 inch diameter.

09 July 2012: Some photos of personal interest.

07-08 July 2012: Working Under The Dash.

Took the front seat out and started the finish work on the under
dash wiring. The stereo, tachometer and turnsignals wiring is done.
As a matter of fact, unless something breaks or needs changing,
this completes all the wiring. The pigtail shown is the damaged
piece for the turnsignals that was the last critical old piece.
Drilled hole in firewall for throttle cable and routed throttle
cable through.

04 July 2012: Photo Op on the Driveway.

Backed the Ford out of the garage today, Fourth of July 2012.
The purpose was to get some photos out of the garage and see how
it would actually respond getting back into the garage.
It worked, still no gas pedal, but even at idle, it did well!

30 Jun 2012: Completion of Tach and Fuel Pump Wiring Under Hood.

I have completed the wiring and hookup of the tachometer and fuel
pump under the hood. While in there, I filled the cooling system
and then ran the motor for a while. The tach and temp gauges did
their job and all is well. NO LEAKS!!!

28 Jun 2012: Installation of Radiator Support to Hood Seal.

I have completed the installation of a new radiator support to
hood seal. The original was installed with staples, something I
have no tools for using, so I drilled holes and used number 10
screws with locking nuts as can be seen in the photos.

09-11 Jun 2012: And the mule bellhousing proves its worth!

I have completed the modification of the original flathead clutch
bracket. It's in the car and works like a champ!!! The first
photo shows me testing the clutch action. The second photo shows
the clutch actuator rod before shortening, while the third and
forth show the rod after shortening and a new front eye section.

07 Jun 2012: I have acquired a mule engine for header fabrication

I bought a 351 Cleveland block, heads, and bellhousing for use in
fabricating the headers and a clutch mechanism bracket. This will
allow me to do some of the design and fit work on my work bench
instead of crawling over and under the car.

22 Apr 2012: Stainless Fuel line is complete and working.

I have installed new stainless fuel line from the tank to the fuel
pump, and from the fuel pump to the engine and tested the results.
I also did some other photos from under the engine and tranny for
header and clutch bracket work.

One of these days, I have some major work to do replacing these
rusted roll pans and floor support ends. The rest of the car is
pretty solid, but these look awful!!! Can you say "Frame Off"?

07 Apr 2012: Fuel line is in from the tank to the engine bay.

I have installed new stainless fuel line from the tank to the fuel
pump, and from the fuel pump to the mild steel line just in front
of the rear wheels. That line continues to the front of the body
then between the frame and body to the engine bay. I need to make
some changes to that foremost line to complete it to the engine.

01 Apr 2012: Nope, not an April Fools joke, the fuel pump is in

Yep, even after thinking I really wasn't in the mood to do anything
I fabricated the fuel pump mounting bracket, including welding two
pieces of strap steel together, figured out where the bolt holes
needed to be, drilled and painted, then install the bracket and
the fuel pump. Just amazing how a day can turn out.

21 Mar 2012: Final fab work on headlight doors

Well, they're done. I used some low temp (350 deg) brazing rod
from Muggy Weld (muggyweld.com) to fill the screw heads and
the seams. Then some filing to smooth the areas. Last was
a coat of primer and then the white final color.
The second row of photos in this group show an original door
along with a new one for comparison.

18 Mar 2012: Step 4 of fab work on headlight doors

This step was to bolt the upper and lower halves together.
This needs to be strong enough to keep the headlight doors
from working loose and coming off the car while driving.
Another consideration was to provide a good solid basis for
filling the cracks and screw heads for that smooth final finish.

10 Mar 2012: Step 3 of fab work on headlight doors

This step was to section about 1/2 inch from the sides of each
piece and then trial fit them on the car. Note the use of duct
tape to temporarily hold them together for fit check. I took
another 1/8 inch to close up the gap at the bottom and it looks
so much better. Need to bolt the two halves together and paint.

23 Feb 2012: Testing headlight door materials

I tried heating the cut off headlight door rings to see how they
would react, and as expected, they did not fare well. The metal
is brittle and while cold, does not bend very far before breaking.
If heated, even just a little, it actually gets really soft really
quick, and can't be worked as it just separates and breaks off.

19 Feb 2012: Another step modifying new headlight doors

I removed a sliver moon piece where the brow of the headlight
door intersected with the headlamp bulb and rim. The next step
will be to remove 1/2 inch from the sides of the doors to get the
overall height to match the fenders.

02 Feb 2012: Doing some fab work on the new headlight doors

These doors are from a '55 T-bird and will be "transformed" to
fit the headlights on my '53 Ford. This step was to remove 3/4 inch
from the back edge to allow the headlight and door to align at the
headlight rim.

08 Jan 2012: A Change in the fuel line fittings at the tank.

After a long hiatus for the Christmas / New Years holidays
I actually did a little work on the Ford, getting ready for a
complete rework of the fuel system. I will be replacing the
mild steel fuel lines with 3/8 stainless, and relocating the fuel pump.

13 Nov 2011: I have built a workbench

The vise is installed and ready for use.
Not shown is a chop saw which will do for cutting the header tubes.

29 Oct 2011: I need shop facilities I don't yet have.

I will be acquiring a bench, vise, and bandsaw so that I can
make these headers in some sort of decent timeframe.

28 Oct 2011: Got the motor running today!!!

This was the first time that this motor had been run in the past
2 years, and man did it run GREAT! It really sounded mean and
ready to kick some backend. Can't wait to get this on the street.

25 Oct 2011: I have begun the process of building my own headers.

I have ordered and received a bunch of mandrel bent and straight
tubing, along with welding supplies for the job.

Here are two pages of drawings that I have finally come up with as some place to start.

15 Oct 2011: The whole Dalool Auto / Visions Racing (Bud Fizone) thing fizzled.

I'm going to do my own headers. With help from "Headers By Ed"
I'm proceeding on my own. My welding skills are horrible, but Oh Well.
This guy has been building headers since 1962 and really knows his stuff,
and is VERY passionate about doing things right. He is excellent help.

I'm not sure what really happened... well... except
pissing off Andy Dalool after he said he'd be working on my car
first thing after his return from vacation, and then not "having
room for my car" when he did return. I told him off.
And then Bud Fizone was "sick" in Arizona when time came for his
part. He might actually have been, I have no real knowledge of
that. But he never called me back after saying he'd call me to
let me know when he was ready to start my headers.
I lost two months waiting around for these guys.
Personally, I don't think I had deep enough pockets for either of them.
All in all, I've not had a lot of luck or success with hot rod shops.

25 Aug 2011: Brought the car back home (Dalool work not yet started)

He decided to take a 2 week vacation, and I figured to get a few
things done during that time.

Got some things done on the Electrical and Dash Rework.

18 Aug 2011: Off to Dalool Performance for clutch linkage and headers

17 Aug 2011: ReInstall new fuel sending unit and gas tank

Removed the fuel tank for final inspection and found that the
sending unit had been incorrectly assembled requiring a new one.
Al's shop had also not installed the rubber isolators on the top
of the fuel tank, so I removed the good ones from the old tank and
installed them on the new tank. Note only some surface rust where
the tank mounts under the trunk.

Note that the work Al's shop completed DID make the
whole fuel system job a lot easier since they had already been
there, and did clean up the tank straps and did a nice job on the
3/16 stainless brake line install, including bleeding the brakes.
And they DID do a nice job on the crossmember modification and
engine and transmission mounts.

12-14 Aug 2011: ReInstall spark plug wires and looms

Changed to Champion spark plugs, gapped and tightened,
Used straight ends on the spark plug wires and reinstalled them.

11 Aug 2011: Located someone to fab my headers!!!
Bud Fizone at Visions Race Cars has agreed to build them for me.

Dalool Performance will also be performing some needed work.

New 12v heater fan motor assembled to mounting plate and fan cage

06 Aug 2011: Install spark plug wires and looms

05 Aug 2011: Photos for header, gas pedal, and fuel line work

A note on the fuel pump stuff: In order to get enough fuel
flow to feed the Cleveland at a possible 400 hp, I had decided to
install 3/8 stainless fuel line and a Holley Red Label fuel pump.
These pumps require that fuel be delivered by gravity to the pump
inlet. They can be used when a siphon situation is involved, but
are not designed or intended to draw fuel in. Hence the inlet to
the pump needs to be direct from the bottom of the tank.
The stainless is to keep rust out of the equation as much as possible.

The fuel pump and lines install done at Al's shop wasn't to spec.
They installed the pump up over the rear axle and because "they
don't have the tools to deal with 3/8 stainless", they installed
3/8 mild steel fuel line instead. Note that as I found out later
they also had not done the fuel tank install all that well.

29 July 2011: Finish thermal controls fastening and install upper
radiator support with Ford emblem

28 July 2011: Rework heater hose bypass

26 July 2011: Removed old, install new oil pressure sending unit

25 July 2011: Install thermal controls for electric fan

24 July 2011: 3/8 stainless tube for PCV, wiring work around alternator,
install electric radiator fan

23 July 2011: New driveshaft installed

18 July 2011: New driveshaft ordered

17 July 2011: Fixed a leak in the rear brake lines

07 July 2011: Install Electric Pusher Fan and More

More done on engine wiring and plumbing.
Installed an electric pusher fan.
The oil is in the motor and the compression is good on all cylinders.

21 June 2011: A little piddlin with throttle stuff and wires

17 June 2011: Home from Al's Rod & Custom

The motor and trans are mounted, the right side header is in,
and the gas tank and fuel and brake lines are done. I have mounted
the radiator and Hurst shifter. I still do not have a header on
the driver side.

Actually, can't use the passenger header either, since they need
to be a symetric pair.

Note the location of the fuel pump above the rear axle.

10 June 2011: Al's Rod & Custom status shots

Well, not much to report yet, but the crossmember is cut
as is the drive tunnel, to fit the engine down in there.
Tune in next week for more!!

07 June 2011: It's off to Al's Rod & Custom

It's time for some professional assistance with the front
crossmember and headers. And no, the Sanderson driver side header
didn't work out. Really nice headers though.

30 May 2011: The Cleveland is sitting in the Ford!!!

After two days of lousy weather keeping me inside playing PS3
I got the Cleveland into the Ford. It isn't where it needs to be
and isn't bolted down at all, just sitting on the crossmembers.
But it IS in the car and looks real nice there. I now need to
consider my options on how to proceed. I did have an epiphany
about cutting the drive tunnel open (which would allow the motor
to fit without other mods) and install a center console with a
plexiglass top. That would allow the occupants in the front seat
to view the transmission as it goes through shifting, etc.

22 May 2011: The Cleveland is preped and ready.

Wish I could actually use those headers, but they don't fit the car.

16 Apr 2011: The flathead is out.

Sure looks empty in there... wish I could do a proper cleaning too
but not in a rent house (complicated subject).

12 Mar 2011: New radiator, and front sway bar replacement.

26 Feb 2011: Milodon oil pan in place.

02 Feb 2011: Milodon Drag Race oil pan.

06 Dec 2010: Removal of steering column shift mechanism complete.

16 Nov 2010: The transmission joins the engine and car as ready.

12 Nov 2010: A cleaned up bell housing by David Phillips.

11 Sep 2010: And the engine swap begins.
God Bless America on this day of Historic Infamy.

Progress for that first weekend:
Disconnect all top accessible attachments to the engine.
Drain and remove radiator, and 6v horns.
Remove old 6v battery and regulator, clean and paint battery tray.
Rework headlight and parking lamp fixtures, clean and treat rust.
Install new 12v battery, headlamps, parking lamps, and horns.
Install new 12v starter solenoid.
Trade out '53 headlight doors for '55 T-Bird headlight doors...
Note that the '55 set still need to be reworked for proper fit.
Remove hood.

08 Jul 2010: New chrome starter

26 Jun 2010: Modified and painted alternator mounting brackets

06 Jun 2010: New black powder coated alternator

04 Jun 2010: New Hedman Hedders 88220 (probably won't fit car)

25 Apr 2010: Removed Oil Pan for bottom inspection - A-Ok

09 Apr 2010: New Pioneer harmonic balancer

03 Apr 2010: Valve train has been inspected, rockers adjusted,
and intake manifold installed and torqued.

18 Mar 2010: New front cover

17 Feb 2010: K&N 66-1520 Air Filter

12 Feb 2010: Holley 4150 of 750cfm

02 Feb 2010: Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold,
Edelbrock Victor high volume water pump, and
Mobil 1 oil filter

19 Jan 2010: Chrome water neck and a high volume thermostat.

Note that the new parts are just trial fitted at this point

16 Jan 2010: How it looked when I got it.

Pretty nice really, rotating assembly has 3,000 miles and
is in great shape, has brand new head work and the Crane rollers.
Cam is a Ford SVO M-6250-A341 with 292i/302e duration,
.510i/.536e lift (dur 214i/224e @ .050 lift)

[all images copyright 1994-2012 by Roy C. Sigsbey, all rights reserved]

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Roy C. Sigsbey

1704 Hermitage Drive
Round Rock, TX 78681 USA
Phone:(831) 915-0011
Email:
rosby@yourwish.com
URL:
http://www.yourwish.com/